My solo climb of Mt. Fuji or bring a headlamp and sunscreen

So in August of 2022 things were opening up in Japan. If this was a good thing or a bad thing has yet to be discovered.  I, like many others, had been stuck at home- well in my home area for …ever.  I wanted to get out. Doing things, exploring. Safely. With a mask on. But what to do?

Well, Mt Fuji was open for the first time in almost 2 years. I had a few days off. Okay.  Let’s plan thing in less than 48 hours. Step one find a place to sleep for the night. I was not going to climb the mountain in one day. Can it be done? Yes. Has it been done yes? But not by me. No thank you.

With the help of a co-worker, I found a mountain hunt to sleep at Miharashikan Hut.

Now,  this dictated which trail I had to take. I was taking the Subashiri trail or the running sands trail. More on that later. With a place to sleep secured it was time to buy provisions. For this, I went to the 100 yen store. There I was able to pick up almost everything I needed from rainwear to snacks, water, and earplugs. Once home I dug out my large leather backpack and some winter clothes. From everything, I read it was going to be cold at the top —also a light for the nighttime climb.

Day one of the climb.

I was up early. Maybe 6 am. I know for some that’s not early but I got home at 11 pm from work. So early.  I ate. checked the apartment grabbed my gear and headed out on my 4 and half-hour train ride from Tokyo to Gotemba Station and from there the 5 station.  I had three trains and one bus. This gave me the chance to nap on the way there. Yes, Japan is safe enough to do that.

Once at the bus station, I took a few pictures called my parents and then waited for the bus to arrive to take me to the 5th station. 

The start of the trail.  The Subashiri 5th Station (須走五合目, Subashiri Gogōme)  is on the East side of Mt. Fuji. It is the second easiest to access by public transportation from Tokyo.

Bus. Temperature check. Time to go.

At the 5th station, you can buy walking sticks, gifts and food, and supplies or gear. They even had a headlamp. But I was fine. I bought a walking stick. 

Off on the forest path up the mountain.  At the start of the path, there are people collecting a 1,000 yen donation for the preservation of the mountain. I paid and got a nice button pin. Of course.

Then up the stone steps winded up to a temple. I prayed for strength and good weather.

The first part of the path in the forest. It was not that bad nor that crowded. I meet with other people coming down the mountain. so knew I would have to come this way again.

At one point the path looked like a river of black stones, bubbling out of the ground. And considering this was a volcano it probably was at one point. The only thought that went through my head was nope. Not doing that. I made a sharp right following a rope line I could see in the trees marking the edge of the path.  This way up was easier. No rocks. A few dead trees but nothing hard and it rejoined the main path right after the annoying fountain of rocks.  This was something to remember for the way back down.

Upwards I went. Eventually running into a trio of young people whom I kept exchanging the lead with until they stopped for the night at a Mountian hut 6.5 

I still had to make it up to 7.5. Two more to go. By now I was tired. Alone and running low on energy. I did not want to do this anymore. I was getting cold and I was falling asleep standing up if I rested too long. I made it to the 7th hut. From there it was 20 mins to the 7 and a half hut. It should have been.  The wind whipped through me.  The darkness settled around me and I just broke down. I wanted to go home. But that would be going back. And rest was right there. But I still could not move. I told myself if I got to the 7th and half hut I could rest. I could rest and sleep and eat and decide then if I wanted to go home or keep climbing. That was the only thing that got me to move. That 20-minute climb took me an hour. But I made it.

I checked in for the night. Cleaned up using body wipes. Changed into warmer clothes and ate and got ready for bed. I couldn’t sleep even though I needed it.  I got a cup of hot cocoa. The staff branded my walking stick, which was included in the price of the stay.

Around 11:30 pm the same day I got up and got ready. I cleaned up for the day, got dressed and ate, and headed out. I knew I was going slow and I needed to be up the mountain and at the top by 4:49 for sunrise.

I started the nighttime climb. part way up my light died. So I  had a backup light but it was handheld.  This would not work. I made the climb using the floodlights from the 8th and 8.5 mountain huts. How I did not break any bones or hurt myself I do not know. Did I fall a lot? Yes. But during that night almost not at all.  At one point, the rest of the climbers woke up and a river of light s made its way up the mountain. I fell into line and joined them going.

I would like to say I made it to the summit before sunrise. I did not. I was maybe 50 steps away when the sun rose at 4:49. At 4:55 I made it to the summit and took a few pictures of the sun from the roof of Japan. 

There I got one more stamp/ brand for my walking stick, and bought a goshuin (red seal), an ema board, and an omaori. Because I had made it to the top.

Now, there is a post office up on the volcano. this required another hike up and around the edge of the volcano to reach it.  It was at this time the winds almost threw me off the mountainside 5 times.  This was annoying at best and unpleasant, to say the least. But I made it. I sent a postcard to myself, my brother, my parents, and my co-worker who helped me plan all this. She was worried about me having a place to sleep for the night.

That done I made my way back around the mountain and down. Not before taking a picture of my morning coffee- BTS coffee can.

Then down I went. Remember how this is called the running sands? Well on the way down most, like 90% of the path is loosely packed sand. So you can run it if you want.  So down I went past mountain huts 8.5 and 8. There was no way to reach them the paths up and down are different in this area. I was able to stop at Mountain Hut 7.5 and eat, use the restrooms, and take a break. Good thing I did.There was no place to rest until Mountain Hut 5.5

Yeah. Cue falling a few times, because of shifting sands. I reminded myself I had made it up. I can and I will make it down. I was not on a time limit. Just because people were passing me did not mean they were better than me. I could do this. I had done it before. This was not an issue.  I finally got to rest at 5.5 Station. Then back through the forest and I knew what was coming.  Yet, that somehow made it easier, because my brain had stored that information.

I took the detour at the annoying rocking through the forest. As I was getting tired an older man that I was allowing to pass me told me  Just a little more in Japanese.  So I kept going. He was right.

The joy I felt at seeing that temple was insane.  I had made it. I had done it. I did it alone. Well, there was support. But not always with me.  But it did help. The number of people who cheered me on was helpful. At the end or start, one of the volunteer workers asked me if I was waiting on anyone. I told her no. She told me I had done well. The next bus back to the station was in 1 hour so please rest.

This I did. I ate a grape ice cream and then had Mt Fuji curry. Then a lingonberry ice cream. Because yes.  Try telling me no.

Now on the bus back I saw a young man that I met at the 7.5 hut on the way down. He was on the way up. He did the whole mountain by himself in the same time it took me to come down. A little annoyed but very proud of him. He was just pleased to see me. We talked for a bit. Then I settled into sleep.

I had a 4.5-hour train ride home. On these rides, I sometimes stand. Not today. I found a place that was not reserved for the elderly, injured,  parents with young children, or pregnant women and sat. No one asked me to move. From the walking stick with all the brands from Mt. Fuji to how tired I looked, they left me alone.

Now, I did have to walk through Shinjuku to change trains. The number of men that called out to me, was amazing. And it was good. They told me I did good. once they saw the walking stick. That I was cool. That I worked hard. That it was awesome.  Even at my home station, a few men asked me about my trip. they looked over the walking stick they told me to rest and go home safely. That I did.

I got home. Cleaned up. Unpacked. Then slept for a few hours. Like most of the next day.

Ah..the sunscreen. I am a light-skinned person of color. I used sunscreen. Not enough. I still burned.  Use sunscreen. Pack a headlamp. Checked the batteries. Oh, and 2 liters of water is not enough but it will do. 3 Liters would be better. For this trail pack spats or gaiters for your shoes.